7 Things I’ve Learned About Cambodia

I have to admit the I really didn’t make the time to study up on Cambodia before visiting. The majority of my ‘trip planning’ occurred on the bus ride to the border. Some of these may be common knowledge to some of you, but they surprised me.

1. Money is crazy here. I knew that the US dollar was legal tender but I didn’t realize how prevalent it was. Draw money out of an ATM and you’ll receive crisp $20 and $50 bills. Pay for a meal in US dollars and the change will often be returned to you as Cambodian riel. The current exchange rate is 4200 riel to the dollar but most Cambodians round it off at 4000 to make things easier, bless their hearts.

To make things even more confusing, about half of the country accepts Thai baht as well. Your wallet will soon be filled with a mishmash of greenbacks, baht, and riel notes that feel just like monopoly money. Expect to waste many hours wondering whether or not you just overpaid that driver by $10.

2. In Phnom Penh, no one walks on the grass. I find this very charming. In this city of concrete and dust, large parks are surrounded by equally large sidewalks where people picnic, chat, and play badminton without setting foot on the greenery. Whatever you do, do not stray from the sidewalk — everyone will glare at you as if you’d just stomped on a puppy.

3. Traffic here is total chaos but it somehow works. People drive on all sides of the road or sidewalk in any and all directions, while traffic lights are ignored at all but the largest intersections. Drivers yield only slightly, so the preferred method of merging is to charge in without slowing down and see who gives first.

I experienced this on my first tuk tuk ride in Phnom Penh, when the driver drove full-speed into a cross-street full of fast-moving traffic. Somehow we emerged on the other side unscathed, but then had to do it again so I could return to the hotel and change my shorts.

4. It really is the Wild West. As I was checking into my hotel on my first day in Siem Reap, the clerk asked me if I wanted to buy pot. Most restaurants in Siem Reap offer “happy” versions of everything on their menu where –instead of a plastic prize– you get a crazy pot buzz instead. The local gas station even has Viagra for sale at the counter, right next to the condoms and chewing gum.

5. Traveling in the off-season will not save you money. Because of the summer heat, a room with a fan (which goes for $5-6) seems extremely unappealing. After 40 years of strife and civil war, the Cambodian infrastructure is completely shot and all of the power plants are powered by diesel fuel. As a result, Cambodians pay nine times the average American cost per kilowatt. AC rooms cost roughly double what a fan-cooled room will run you.

6. The border crossing en route to Siem Reap isn’t that bad. I’d heard horror stories of rip-offs and hassles, but found that it was fairly easy to navigate. As you walk to the border, you’ll encounter several touts who try to steer you into a bogus visa office, where you’ll pay 1,200 baht ($37 US) for a visa instead of the flat $20 US you’ll pay at the official visa office. When they approach you about a visa, simply ask “$20 visa?” and they’ll scowl dramatically, then leave you alone.

7. English is everywhere. It seems to be the unofficial second language and young Khmers are scrambling to master it. I’ve had fewer language hassles here than Thailand, by far. Older Khmers and people out in the rural areas will, however, just stare at you if you say anything more complicated than “hello”. If you need a translator, find a 5-year old.

Tagged as: Cambodia, currency, phnom penh, siem reap, tips